Breaking Wave Height Estimation from Timex Images: Two Methods for Coastal Video Monitoring Systems

Abstract

The breaking wave height is a crucial parameter for coastal studies but direct measurements constitute a di cult task due to logistical and technical constraints. This paper presents two new practical methods for estimating the breaking wave height from digital images collected by shore-based video monitoring systems. Both methods use time-exposure (Timex) images and exploit the cross-shore length (LHs) of the typical time-averaged signature of breaking wave foam. The first method (Hsb,v) combines LHs and a series of video-derived parameters with the beach profile elevation to obtain the breaking wave height through an empirical formulation. The second method (Hsb,v24) is based on the empirical finding that LHs can be associated with the local water depth at breaking, thus it can be used to estimate the breaking wave height without the requirement of local bathymetry. Both methods were applied and verified against field data collected at the Portuguese Atlantic coast over two days using video acquired by an online-streaming surfcam. Furthermore, Hsb,v24 was applied on coastal images acquired at four additional field sites during distinct hydrodynamic conditions, and the results were compared to a series of di erent wave sources. Achievements suggest that Hsb,v method represents a good alternative to numerical hydrodynamic modeling when local bathymetry is available. In fact, the di erences against modeled breaking wave height, ranging from 1 to 3 m at the case study, returned a root-mean-square-error of 0.2 m. The Hsb,v24 method, when applied on video data collected at five sites, assessed a normalized root-mean-square-error of 18% on average, for dataset of about 900 records and breaking wave height ranging between 0.1 and 3.8 m. These di erences demonstrate the potential of Hsb,v24 in estimating breaking wave height merely using Timex images, with the main advantage of not requiring the beach profile. Both methods can be easily implemented as cost-e ective tools for hydrodynamic applications in the operational coastal video systems worldwide. In addition, the methods have the potential to be coupled to the numerous other Timex applications for morphodynamic studies.